This year, we decided finally to tackle the great snowy heights of the
"Grandes Alpes". The French word for a mountain pass is "col". We climbed
33 of these (six above 2000 metres) over 22 days of cycling - the equivalent
of sea-level to the summit of Everest in the first week. Of course, the
1150 miles/1840 kilometres also included dozens of very large hills as we made
our way back via Provence, the Auvergne
and the highest peaks of Normandy.
Descending the Col des Saisies amidst the Mont Blanc car rally (especially as
the drivers seemed incapable of staying in their lane!) left us quaking
but alive. The excitement of watching rain turn to snow as we ascended
the Izoard was matched by the terror of descending
a snow-covered mountain
with freezing hands and faces blue with cold. Circumnavigating
the Mont Ventoux
provided striking views of villages hanging on cliffs and valleys frilly green
with ripening chestnuts. A hotel regularly visited by Lance Armstrong and the
US Postal gang provided us with a night of great luxury amidst the cacophony
of a village fete. Eagles and kites soared above us as we wound our way along the
hot and sunny gorges of the Ardèche. As we headed north, we traded days in the
saddle for rest days devoted to enjoying the Renaissance buildings, museums,
cathedrals and art works of Moulins and Bourges.
The colder and bleaker countryside also marked a transition to Norman cooking
and the evening meals became correspondingly more elaborate and delicious.
We continued to collect cols even through what is considered a flat region -
but was it a "col too far"? The high of the Pont de Normandie was matched
by the low of Le Havre and the long delays in returning home thanks to the
antiquated, self-sabotaging transport system once known as British Rail.
However, after a good night's sleep, we were soon remembering the stunning
scenery of Alpine ascents matched by the sheer pleasure of descents
extending for miles and miles. Glacier-topped mountain ranges, forests aglow
with autumnal colours and deep blue skies rising above dark brown fields
formed the backdrop to yet another wonderful cycling holiday.
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